[CHALK] it up to [PAINT]

I have never used furniture chalk paint before. The expense to purchase a can is beyond ridiculous and I’m not insane enough to purchase any (so sorry if you are).

I have a few gallons of interior “oops” paint that I picked up really cheap from various hardware stores in rad colors like turquoise and sea foam green. When I purchased them I didn’t have any ideas for them but they were super cool colors that I figured I’d someday find use for. I used the green shade in my kids bathroom and it looks great! 

Here, you have to see it…


Moving on…

Turquoise has been hanging out on the shelf for months. When I scored a $20 desk at Goodwill, the first thing I thought of was that turquoise gallon at home on the shelf. The desk was either going to look super cool when I was finished slapping turquoise all over it, or, it’d look like shit. But, what the hell, the paint was $9 and the desk was $20. If it all went south, I wasn’t out much.


I searched Pinterest for a recipe for diy chalk paint. This is the recipe I settled on (and also the recipe I will be using for future projects). It worked beautifully.

I started by lightly sanding the desk. I know most chalk paint doesn’t usually require you to sand your project first but I wanted to be sure all of the gunk was removed before applying paint. That, and I didn’t want to do this project a second time because the first job didn’t hold up.


I removed the dust with a dry cloth then went over the desk with a damp cloth and let it dry, then I started to apply the paint. I used a brush, the Wooster Shortcut that I use on all of my paint projects. It is truly the best on the market (non compensated opinion).


I brushed on a thin first coat and let it dry. It dries very quickly. I then went back through and spot painted, only covering the places I wanted to stay completely painted, and left the spots with wood showing through so I could sand the paint off and create a distressed effect.


After I had the application I wanted, I took very fine sand paper and went over the entire desk (by hand). Very lightly on the turquoise color just to remove some of the grit on the surface from the baking soda in the paint mixture and harder on the parts I want to distress.


I did not do a top coat. I reinstalled all of the hardware, and reassembled the desk and called her done. It was a bit difficult to sand the paint down to the wood so I am pretty sure this will be durable as is. 

I have heard of Vaseline being applied to your project before painting on the spots you want to distress, but I haven’t quite wrapped my head around that technique. I hate the feel of Vaseline and I don’t want it hanging out on my furniture. Does it clean off of the project completely? If so, how? If you have used Vaseline to distress, I would love to hear from you. I would also love to hear what method you use to distress projects easily without the use of (nasty) Vaseline.

I refinished an ugly dining chair I already had to match to use with this desk. I used a canvas tote to cover a chair cushion and attached it to hide the few little holes in the black fabric of the chairs seat (I didn’t want to go through a reupholstering project too). I like the dimension the black and the decorated cushion add to the overall look. 

*Tutorial to cover a cushion or pillow with a canvas tote here: Canvas Tote Covered Pillow

Without further ado, here is the finished project:


I love this so much, I am shopping my house for other items to paint turquoise! Remember the sofa table mentioned in the Halloween Home Tour??? 

Yes?

Stay tuned, folks… 

😉

Can I “Cut In”?

Why, yes. Yes I can.

I have never met a single person that actually “likes” to paint. Just because I do it, does not mean that I enjoy it. I don’t. I hate painting. Not really the painting itself, but all the work that revolves around all the painting. First you have to tear apart the entire room and move stuff all over the house – besides children, it is the fastest way to mess up the entire house to improve one room.

Then, you have the mess of the painting process and the clean up and redecorating, etc. I’m tired/stressed just thinking about it. But, the hard work of a couple days of work and chaos, really does make it all worth it to enjoy the beauty for months afterward.

I have been painting interiors of homes for over 10 years. I didn’t start off doing a professional job, obviously, my technique has improved over the years just by practice. However, I remember the day when my technique improved DRASTICALLY because of one element; the MOST important detail that turns a paint job into a GREAT paint job…

THE BRUSH.

Yes, the brush you use makes all the difference!

I use to buy the cheapest brushes possible so I could just throw them away and not have to bother cleaning them…

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…I do not know what provoked me to buy the $5 brush rather than the $.99 brush but I am guessing it was because I was brush shopping at Home Depot and not Walmart. And, because I had never seen a brush with a rubber nub handle, so I had to try it out! Well worth the $5 price tag – this thrifter says so.

(insert GREAT brush reveal)!!

**NOTE** I receive no compensation from any companies or retailers mentioned. I am just passing along my opinions/findings/research to save you time and money.

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Now, I used to laugh at other bloggers who said the brush really matters, but like the other million, I agree. THE BRUSH MATTERS. I will never paint with any other brush and the cut in is AMAZING! (What is a “cut in”? To cut in is to paint in the edges where a roller will not fit, i.e, by the ceiling, two adjoining walls, along trim and baseboards, etc.) In fact, I have gotten such great results with this brush, I do not tape. Anything. At all. All of my painting is done by hand, tape free. Why? Because the BRUSH made all the difference. The short handle makes the brush easy to maneuver without a large handle sticking up in the way. I often times find that my hand is cupped over the nub when painting as that is a more comfortable hold for me. The rubber makes the brush easy to grip and allows the handle to flex with the movement of your hand while painting strokes. The bristles are high quality and tightly bound. The entire brush and design, is very well made.

NOTE: Lowe’s sells a similar brush made by Blue Hawk (shown below) that I buy if I am not near Home Depot, but the quality is not as good as the Wooster brand brush. The brush strands are not as tight and they come out with the paint while cutting in so I have to keep picking brush strands out of my paint. It is a pain in the a$$, but it is still better than using the cheapy brushes that lose their strands and still provide a cheap looking paint job.

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So yes, yes I can “cut in.” Almost perfectly (since January 19, 2012 – the first job I used the Wooster brush on – see pic below). Thanks to a little help from my friends, Wooster and Blue Hawk.

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What painting tips have you found helpful? Or, any painting issues you need help with?

(TIP: Put a rubber band across the top of your paint can to wipe excess paint off of your brush before application. On small cans, the band wraps all the way around. On gallons, I wrap my band over the top and around the side to be held in place by the handle rivets.)

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